You do not need a garden to grow your own greens. A sunny windowsill, a balcony or a few pots by the back door are enough for basil, parsley, chives, mint and a steady supply of salad leaves. The container matters more than most people expect, though: the wrong pot is one of the most common reasons herbs fail.
The good news is that the rules are simple. Every pot needs drainage, the size should match the plant, and the material should suit how often you are able to water. Get those right, use a decent compost and give the plants as much light as you can, and most herbs will reward you for months.
Drainage comes first
Whatever pot you choose, water must be able to escape. Roots sitting in waterlogged compost run short of air and start to rot, and herbs such as rosemary, thyme and sage are particularly sensitive to this.
- Choose pots with one or more holes in the base.
- Stand pots on saucers indoors, and empty the saucer if water is still standing in it half an hour after watering.
- Outdoors, raise pots slightly on pot feet or small blocks so the holes do not seal against the ground.
- Decorative pot covers, sometimes called cachepots, often have no holes. Use them as an outer sleeve and keep the plant in a plastic pot with holes inside.
Pot materials compared
| Material | Good points | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Terracotta | Breathable, heavy and stable, classic look | Dries out quickly, can crack in hard frost unless frost resistant |
| Glazed ceramic | Holds moisture longer, many colours | Heavy, check that it has a drainage hole |
| Plastic | Light, cheap, keeps compost moist | Can look less attractive, may become brittle in strong sun |
| Concrete and composite | Modern look, sturdy | Heavy when large, check drainage |
| Fabric grow bags | Good aeration, fold flat for storage | Dry out fast in hot weather |
| Self-watering | Reservoir reduces watering | Not ideal for herbs that like to dry out |
Terracotta suits Mediterranean herbs that prefer to dry out between waterings. Glazed and plastic pots hold water longer, which suits thirstier plants such as basil, parsley and salad leaves. You will find all of these in the pots and planters range.
What size pot do herbs need?
Small pots dry out in hours on a sunny sill, while very large pots can stay wet for too long around a small plant. As a rough guide:
- Seedlings and young plants: small nursery pots or modules, then move them on as roots fill the pot.
- Single herbs such as basil, parsley or chives: a pot around 15 to 20 cm across.
- Rosemary, bay and other shrubby herbs: start around 20 cm and move up a size every year or two as they grow.
- Salad leaves: a wide, shallow trough or window box at least 15 cm deep lets you sow rows and pick leaves as they grow.
- Mixed herb planters: a larger trough lets you group herbs that like the same conditions.
Mint deserves its own pot. It spreads quickly through underground runners, and the Royal Horticultural Society suggests growing it in a container to keep it under control.
Group herbs by what they like
Herbs fall broadly into two groups, and pairing them sensibly saves a lot of trouble:
- Sun lovers that like to dry out: rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano and lavender. Use a free-draining compost, terracotta pots and water only when the top of the compost feels dry.
- Herbs that like steady moisture: basil, parsley, chives, coriander and mint. Keep the compost evenly moist and give them some shade from the hottest midday sun outdoors.
Basil is tender and dislikes cold, so in the UK it is usually grown indoors or outside only in the warmest months.
Compost and feeding
Use a good multipurpose compost, ideally peat-free, which the Royal Horticultural Society recommends for environmental reasons. For Mediterranean herbs, mix in some grit or perlite to improve drainage. Avoid garden soil in pots, as it compacts and drains poorly.
Compost runs low on nutrients after a few weeks of growth. A liquid feed every couple of weeks in spring and summer keeps leafy herbs and salad productive. Woody herbs need less feeding than basil and salad leaves.
Light, watering and picking
Most herbs want as much light as possible. Indoors, a south or west facing windowsill works best, and turning the pot every few days stops plants leaning towards the glass. In winter, light levels drop and growth slows, so water less.
Check pots with your finger rather than watering on a fixed schedule. A small watering can with a long spout makes it easy to water the compost rather than the leaves. Pick regularly from the top of the plant: it encourages bushy growth. For salad leaves, cut the outer leaves and let the centre keep growing. Herb scissors and leaf strippers in peelers and cutters make picking and preparing quicker, and seeds and young plants are in plants.
Once you have more than you can use fresh, the guide to dried herbs and spices explains how to dry and store them.
Quick checklist
- Drainage holes in every pot, and no standing water in saucers.
- Terracotta for rosemary, thyme and sage; glazed or plastic for basil, parsley and salad.
- Around 15 to 20 cm across for single herbs, wide troughs for salad leaves.
- Mint in a pot of its own.
- Peat-free multipurpose compost, with grit for Mediterranean herbs.
- Liquid feed in the growing season.
- Plenty of light and regular picking.
Common questions
Why do supermarket herbs die so quickly?
They are usually many seedlings crowded into one small pot. Split the clump into three or four smaller groups and repot them into fresh compost, and they often last much longer.
Can I grow herbs on a windowsill all year?
Many will keep going, but growth slows in winter because of low light. Hardy herbs such as chives, parsley and mint cope best. Water less in winter and pick lightly until spring.
Do I need to put stones in the bottom of the pot?
It is not necessary. A pot with good drainage holes and a free-draining compost works well. A piece of mesh over a large hole stops compost washing out.
